Investing calculator
ROI & CAGR Calculator
Measure what an account, a property or a single holding really earned: total return, the annualized rate, and the real return after inflation, set against simple alternatives.
What Did This Money Really Earn?
Three Numbers, Three Questions
Return on investment (ROI) is the total gain as a share of what went in. The calculator opens on a $500,000 account that is worth $1,150,000 after fees twelve years later: a gain of $650,000, or 130%. ROI answers "how much did it make?" and says nothing about how long that took.
Compound annual growth rate (CAGR) is the one steady yearly rate that turns the starting value into the ending value over the holding period. The same 130% over twelve years is 7.19% a year. This is the figure to compare with a fund, an adviser's record or a bond yield.
Real return is the CAGR after inflation. At 3% inflation, 7.19% a year is 4.07% in purchasing power: the part of the growth that actually raised what the money can buy. For a retiree living on the portfolio, that is the number that matters.
The Formulas Behind the Calculator
ROI = (Ending Value − Starting Value) ÷ Starting Value × 100
CAGR = (Ending Value ÷ Starting Value)1 ÷ Years − 1
Real Return = (1 + CAGR) ÷ (1 + Inflation) − 1
The exponent in the CAGR formula is what keeps the answer honest. Dividing the 130% total return by twelve years gives a "simple average" of 10.83% a year, which overstates the result because it ignores compounding. The compounded rate is 7.19%. The calculator shows both so you can see the gap, and so you can spot it when someone quotes the flattering one.
The real return uses the exact formula rather than subtracting inflation from the return. Subtracting gives 4.19%; the exact figure is 4.07%. The difference is small at low rates and grows as rates rise.
What Are the Comparison Rates?
The benchmark table grows your starting value at three round, assumed rates over your exact holding period: 4% for savings or a money market fund, 5% for a bond fund, and 10% for a US stock index fund. They are assumptions for comparison, not live data and not forecasts. Actual returns over any particular twelve years can be far above or below them, and a stock fund can fall by a third or more along the way.
The useful comparison is with what you would really have done instead. If the alternative to a rental was a balanced 60/40 fund, the fair benchmark sits between the bond and stock rows. If you want the comparison exact, look up the total return of the fund you would have used over the same dates and enter its ending value as a second run.
Get the Inputs Right: Net, Not Gross
Starting value is everything you paid. Purchase price plus commissions, closing costs and any upfront repairs or improvements. A condo bought for $380,000 with $9,000 of closing costs and a $26,000 renovation has a starting value of $415,000.
Ending value is everything you received. The sale price or current value, less selling costs, plus the dividends, interest or net rent you took out along the way. A holding that went nowhere but paid 3% a year in dividends still earned about 3% a year.
Fees come out of the ending value. Advisory fees, fund expenses, annuity charges and property management all reduce what you keep. Use the value on your statement after fees, not a gross return someone reports to you. For a taxable sale, subtract the tax as well if you want the return you actually keep.
Common Mistakes
- Comparing a 3-year total return with a 12-year one without annualizing
- Dividing total return by the years instead of using the CAGR formula
- Leaving dividends, interest or rent out of the ending value
- Leaving advisory fees, closing costs and taxes out of the figures
- Treating a nominal gain as real when inflation took much of it
- Using simple ROI on an account with regular additions or withdrawals (that needs IRR)
Step by Step
- Add up everything you paid to buy, including costs and improvements
- Add up everything you received or could sell for today, after selling costs and fees
- Enter the exact holding period in years and months
- Read the CAGR, not the total ROI, when comparing options
- Check the real return to see how much purchasing power you gained
- Compare with the alternative you would realistically have chosen
Illustrative example: the people and figures below are hypothetical, not real clients. Numbers are calculated from the stated assumptions.
What the Condo Really Earned Before Richard and Ellen Sold It
A $340,000 Price Gain, Measured Properly
Richard, 66, and Ellen, 64, bought a condo for cash fourteen years ago and rented it out. They are selling it as part of downsizing and wanted to know, before deciding where the proceeds go, whether the property had earned its keep against the bond and stock funds they already own.
The Headline Numbers
- • Bought for $380,000, selling for $720,000
- • "$340,000 profit, an 89% return"
- • Leaves out $9,000 of closing costs and a $26,000 renovation
- • Leaves out $43,200 of selling costs (6% of the price)
- • Leaves out $196,000 of net rent collected over the years
The Complete Numbers
- • Starting value: $415,000 (price, closing costs, renovation)
- • Ending value: $676,800 net proceeds + $196,000 net rent = $872,800
- • ROI: 110.3% over 14 years
- • CAGR: 5.45% a year
- • Real return at 3% inflation: 2.38% a year
What the Calculator Showed Them
1. It Beat Bonds, Narrowly
At the assumed 5% bond rate, $415,000 would have grown to $821,672 over the same fourteen years. The condo came out $51,128 ahead, before counting the time they spent on tenants and repairs.
2. The Stock Row Was Far Higher
At the assumed 10% stock rate the same money would have reached $1,575,962. That is an assumption, not what the market actually did over their dates, but it showed how much return they gave up for a steady rent check.
3. The Rent Timing Understates It
The calculator treats the $196,000 of rent as if it all arrived at the sale. It came in year by year, which is worth more. Entered as yearly cash flows in the IRR calculator, $14,000 a year plus the sale proceeds works out to about 6.3% a year.
The figures are before tax. Because the condo was never their main home, the home-sale exclusion does not apply, and the part of the gain that reflects depreciation claimed over the years is taxed at up to 25% as unrecaptured section 1250 gain (IRS). Subtracting the expected tax from the ending value gives the after-tax return, which is the fair one to compare with the funds they hold in taxable accounts.
They sold. The rental had done a respectable job, but managing it in their seventies was not how they wanted to spend the time, and the proceeds fit the plan better as part of a diversified portfolio. The downsizing guide covers the other decisions that came with the move.
How Do You Measure an Investment You Have Held for Years?
Annualize it. A total gain tells you how much an investment made; only the annual rate lets you compare it with a bond yield, a fund's record or what you need your portfolio to earn. The calculator takes three inputs, what you put in, what you have now or received, and how long it took, and returns the total return, the compound annual growth rate (CAGR) and the real return after inflation.
With the defaults, $500,000 placed in a managed account twelve years ago is worth $1,150,000 today after fees. The total return is 130%. The CAGR is 7.19% a year, the real return at 3% inflation is 4.07%, and at that pace the money doubles about every ten years. The simple average, 130% divided by twelve, is 10.83%: a figure that flatters the result because it ignores compounding.
Most long-held positions in a retirement portfolio fit this shape: a rollover you have not added to, a block of company stock, an inherited account, a property bought for cash, an annuity bought with one premium. When money went in or came out along the way, the IRR calculator gives the right answer instead; more on that below.
Is Your Adviser Earning the Fee?
You can only tell by measuring the net return and comparing it with what you would otherwise have held. A fee charged as a share of assets comes out every year, whether the year was good or bad, and it compounds against you the way returns compound for you.
| Net return | Value after 20 years | Difference |
|---|---|---|
| 7% (no advisory fee) | $3,869,684 | — |
| 6% (after a 1% fee) | $3,207,135 | −$662,549 (−17.1%) |
To check your own account, take the value on a statement from several years ago and the value today, both after fees, and enter them with the exact number of years and months between the statements. Choose a stretch with no deposits or withdrawals. Then run the same dates for the alternative: the total return of a low-cost balanced fund, or of the mix of index funds you would have used. If the gap is larger than the fee, the adviser is adding return; if it is smaller, you are paying for other things.
Those other things can be worth paying for. Planning Roth conversions before required minimum distributions, choosing which account to draw from each year, coordinating an estate plan, or keeping a nervous investor from selling at the bottom can each be worth more than 1% a year to the right household. The point is to know what you are buying. The guide to choosing a financial adviser covers fee structures and the questions to ask.
What Return Does a Retirement Portfolio Need?
Enough real return to carry your withdrawals for the rest of your life, which is a lower bar than most marketing implies and a higher one than cash can clear. Once you are drawing from the portfolio, what matters is the return after inflation, because your spending rises with prices while a nominal balance does not.
That is why the calculator puts the real return beside the CAGR. A certificate of deposit that paid 4% while inflation ran at 3% earned about 1% in purchasing power, before tax. A stock fund that earned 7.19% in the same conditions earned about 4.07%. The retirement withdrawal calculator shows how different real returns change the life of a portfolio at a given withdrawal rate, and how much you need to retire works through the full calculation.
A higher return is not automatically better for a retiree. The order in which returns arrive matters once you are withdrawing: a fall early in retirement, while you are selling to pay bills, does more lasting damage than the same fall later. A holding with a slightly lower but steadier return may serve a plan better than one that averages more with deeper declines. Use the return figure as one input, not the verdict.
How Do Taxes Change the Return on a Sale?
They reduce the ending value you keep, so an after-tax return is the fair comparison for anything held in a taxable account. Run the calculator twice: once with the sale proceeds, once with the proceeds minus the expected tax. Several federal rules decide how large that tax is:
- Long-term capital gains on assets held more than a year are taxed at 0%, 15% or 20%, depending on taxable income (IRS).
- Depreciation on a rental comes back at the sale: the unrecaptured section 1250 gain is taxed at a maximum rate of 25% (IRS).
- The net investment income tax adds 3.8% on investment income above $200,000 of modified adjusted gross income for single filers and $250,000 for married couples filing jointly (IRS). A large one-time gain can push you over the line in the year of sale.
- Your main home is treated differently: up to $250,000 of gain, or $500,000 on a joint return, can be excluded if you owned and lived in it for at least two of the five years before the sale (IRS). A rental you never lived in does not qualify.
A large realized gain also raises your income for the year, which can increase the taxable share of Social Security and, two years later, Medicare premiums through the income-related surcharge; the Medicare and IRMAA guide explains the brackets. Spreading sales over more than one tax year, or selling in a year when other income is low, can keep more of the return.
Holding for heirs
When Is Simple ROI the Wrong Measure?
Whenever money moved in or out between the start and the end. ROI and CAGR assume one sum invested on the first day and one value on the last. Real accounts in retirement rarely look like that: required minimum distributions come out every year, dividends are taken as income, a rental pays monthly, and a portfolio built while working had contributions every payday.
Treating those flows as if they all happened at the end gives the wrong rate. In the Example tab, the rent a couple collected over fourteen years is added to the sale proceeds, which gives a CAGR of 5.45%. Entered as yearly cash flows with the IRR & XIRR calculator, the same money earns about 6.3% a year, because rent received early was worth more than rent received at the sale. For an account with withdrawals, the error runs the other way if the withdrawals are simply ignored: the ending balance looks too small and the return too low.
Brokerage statements often report a personal rate of return that is already money-weighted. If yours does, compare it with the fund's published return for the same period; the difference shows whether the timing of your additions and withdrawals helped or hurt.
How Should You Judge an Annuity or Insurance Product?
By the value you could actually walk away with, not the figure that grows on paper. For a deferred annuity bought with one premium, enter the premium as the starting value and the current surrender value, after any surrender charge, as the ending value. Some products credit a separate "income base" used only to calculate lifetime payments; it is not cash you can take, so it does not belong in a return calculation.
For an income annuity that pays for life, a single ending value does not exist; the return depends on how long you live. The annuity payout calculator handles that comparison. The same net-value rule applies to whole life insurance cash values and structured products: use what you would receive if you ended the contract today.
What Does the Calculator Leave Out?
- Risk. Two investments with the same CAGR can have taken very different paths. The calculator sees only the start and the end.
- Cash flows in between. Use the IRR calculator when money was added or withdrawn.
- Taxes and fees, unless you build them into the values you enter.
- Actual benchmark returns. The comparison rows use assumed round rates of 4%, 5% and 10%. For an exact comparison, look up a fund's total return over your dates.
- Your time. A rental or a concentrated position that needed attention for years may be worth less to you than its return suggests.
Figures on this page are illustrations for hypothetical households, not advice for your situation.
How this calculator works
Method and assumptions
- ROI is the total gain divided by the starting value: (ending value − starting value) ÷ starting value.
- CAGR is the one steady yearly rate that turns the starting value into the ending value: (ending ÷ starting)^(1 ÷ years) − 1. The holding period is your years plus months ÷ 12. An ending value of zero or less is a total loss: ROI shows the full loss and CAGR shows −100%.
- Real return uses the exact Fisher formula, (1 + CAGR) ÷ (1 + inflation) − 1, with the single inflation rate you enter, rather than subtracting inflation from the return.
- The simple average is ROI ÷ years, shown only to compare with CAGR. Doubling time uses the exact formula ln 2 ÷ ln(1 + CAGR), not the Rule of 72.
- The comparison rows grow your starting value at assumed round rates (4% savings, 5% bonds, 10% stocks) over the same holding period. They are not actual market returns over your dates.
What it leaves out
- It assumes one lump sum at the start and nothing added or taken out in between. Dividends or rent you collected are treated as if they all arrived at the end, which understates the return; use the IRR & XIRR Calculator for dated cash flows.
- Taxes, fees and selling costs are only included if you take them out of the ending value yourself.
- Risk is not measured: two investments with the same CAGR can have taken very different paths to get there.
Sources
Methodology reviewed · For education, not individual advice
ROI and CAGR FAQs
What is the difference between ROI and CAGR?
How do I measure whether my adviser is earning the fee?
What is a good return for a retiree?
Does this calculator account for dividends, fees or taxes?
How do I calculate the return when I added or withdrew money over time?
What is a real rate of return?
Should I sell an appreciated holding or keep it for my heirs?
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